Spring Motorcycle Maintenance Checklist — Get Your Bike Ready to Ride
The clocks are about to go forward, the sun’s finally showing its face, and you’re itching to get back out on two wheels. I get it — every year around this time I start getting restless too. But before you throw a leg over and disappear into the countryside, do yourself a favour and spend an hour going over your bike properly. A winter’s worth of sitting around can cause all sorts of little issues, and the last thing you want is a breakdown on your first ride of the season.
Here’s my checklist — the same one I run through on every bike that comes through the workshop at LozMoto.
Battery
This is the number one issue I see every spring. Batteries don’t like sitting idle, and if you didn’t have yours on a trickle charger over winter, there’s a decent chance it’s flat or on its way out. Stick a multimeter on it — you want to see at least 12.4 volts. Anything below 12.0 and you’re probably looking at a replacement.
If it’s borderline, try charging it fully and see if it holds. But honestly, if your battery’s more than three or four years old and it struggled through winter, just replace it. A new battery is thirty or forty quid. Getting stranded in the middle of nowhere because you were being tight is considerably more expensive.
Tyres
Have a proper look at your tyres, and I mean properly — not a quick glance as you wheel the bike out. Check the tread depth all the way around. The legal minimum is 1mm across three-quarters of the width, but if you’re anywhere near that, get them changed. Grip on cold spring roads is already sketchy enough without running on worn rubber.
More importantly, check for cracking on the sidewalls and flat spots. Tyres that have been sitting in one position for months can develop flat spots that you’ll feel as a wobble at speed. If the rubber looks dry or cracked, it’s time for new tyres regardless of tread depth. Old rubber doesn’t grip — it’s as simple as that.
Pressures too, obviously. They’ll have dropped over winter. Check them cold and set them to the manufacturer’s spec. It’s printed on a sticker somewhere on the bike — usually the swingarm or under the seat.
Chain and Sprockets
If you’ve got a chain-driven bike, this is your next stop. Give the chain a good clean with a proper chain cleaner (not WD-40, which strips the O-ring grease) and then lube it up. Check the tension — you want the right amount of play as per your owner’s manual, usually about 25-35mm.
While you’re down there, have a look at the sprocket teeth. If they’re hooked or shark-finned, the sprocket’s worn and needs replacing. Running a new chain on knackered sprockets (or vice versa) just wears everything out faster. Always replace chain and sprockets as a set.
Fluids
Check everything: engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, and clutch fluid if your bike has a hydraulic clutch.
Oil should be at the right level and not look like treacle. If you’re due a service or can’t remember when you last changed it, just do it. Fresh oil is cheap insurance. Pop over to our servicing page if you’d rather we handle it — we can do a full spring service and have you sorted in a day.
Brake fluid is the one people forget. It absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point. If it looks dark or murky instead of clear and golden, get it flushed and replaced. This is genuinely a safety thing — dodgy brake fluid means dodgy brakes, and that’s not something you want to find out at the end of a fast downhill.
Brakes
Speaking of brakes — check your pads. Pull the calipers and have a look at the pad thickness. Most pads have a wear indicator groove; if you can’t see it any more, they need replacing.
Squeeze the levers and make sure they feel firm. A spongy lever means there’s air in the system, which means you need a bleed. If the lever pulls all the way to the bar, don’t ride the bike until you’ve sorted it.
Give the discs a visual check too. Light surface rust from winter storage is normal — it’ll clean off in a few miles of riding. But if you can see deep grooves, scoring, or a noticeable lip at the edge, the discs might need replacing.
Electrics
Go around the bike and check every light: headlight (high and low beam), tail light, brake light (front and rear lever), indicators, and number plate light. It’s an easy MOT fail and an even easier fix, but you’d be amazed how many people ride around with a blown indicator bulb.
Check your horn works too. And if your bike’s got heated grips or any accessories, make sure they’re all functioning properly.
Your First Ride of the Season
Right, everything checks out and you’re ready to ride. A few tips for that first outing:
Take it easy for the first twenty minutes. Your tyres are cold, the roads might still have grit and salt on them, and — let’s be honest — your riding skills are a bit rusty after months off. Give yourself time to get your feel back. Corners will feel strange for the first few miles. That’s normal.
Stick to roads you know. This isn’t the day to go exploring unfamiliar back roads. Ride somewhere familiar so you can focus on getting comfortable again rather than navigating.
Watch for potholes. Winter absolutely destroys road surfaces. That road you know like the back of your hand might have a new crater in it that wasn’t there in October. Keep your eyes up and scanning ahead.
If you’re in the market for something new for the riding season, come and have a look at what we’ve got in stock. And if you’re not sure what to look for when buying used, have a read of our guide on 5 things to check before buying a used motorcycle.
Need a Hand?
If you’d rather not do all this yourself, or you’ve found something that needs professional attention, just drop us a message. We do full spring services, tyre changes, brake work — the lot. We’ll get your bike sorted and ready for the season.
Give us a shout on WhatsApp or pop down to the shop in Totton. We’re always happy to help.
